Plastic ban in wipes
Defra has notified the World Health Organisation of a draft statutory instrument that will ban the use of plastics in cosmetic wipes in England, including sheet masks. The proposed date of adoption is September 2024, with a full ban from 2026. The ban does not impact the UK’s developed nations, which are responsible for their own legislation.
Consultation on the UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
The SCCS has opened a consultation on the UV filter ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC) relating to the consideration of it being a potential endocrine disruptor at concentrations over 10%. A final opinion is due later this year.
Restricting cosmetics for minors
In the USA, lawmakers are considering restricting the use of certain cosmetics to minors. This comes after the controversy over the last year regarding Gen Alpha children’s demand to look and smell great with premium products and the emergence of the “Sephora Kids.” The proposed bill may ban the sale of skincare or cosmetic products that target ageing concerns.
Markets: Estee Lauder acquires Deciem
Estee Lauder has completed the acquisition of Deciem (The Ordinary) for $1.7 Billion. The Ordinary was founded by Brandon Truaxe in 2016 with a mission to democratise skincare, Estee Lauder became interested in the brand a year later and by 2019 it was generating $300 million in annual sales.
Claims against Amazon
UK retailers have filed a £1bn damages claim against Amazon. The claim has been made by the retailers, including some skincare brand owners, for “illegally misusing their data” and “manipulating the Amazon Buy Box to benefit its own commercial operation and its overall revenues and profit”
Puig valued at $13.9bn
Puig the family-owned cosmetics company estimated to be valued at $13.9bn who recently acquired Dr Barbara Sturn, have posted an IPO on the Spanish Stock Market at €24.50 per share, the largest Spanish listing for 10 years. The company also own Caroline Herrera and Charlotte Tilbury. The funds will be used to acquire new brands to add to their portfolio.
Clariant acquires Lucas Meyer
Clariant, the Swiss chemical company, has acquired Lucas Meyer, a Canadian cosmetics ingredients business, for $810M. The move increases Clariant’s exposure to active and functional cosmetics, making it a major player in the supply of raw materials to the topicals industry.
Scientific: Fossil fuels
A Danish start-up has raised $4.9m to create the world’s first fermentation platform that could replace fossil fuel material in cosmetics. The new technology could reduce carbon emissions from the extraction and processing of fossil fuels and improve safety due to microplastic production.
Animal testing
L’Oréal has launched new technology which is claimed to produce “bio-printed skin” which the company claims can improve safety and reduce animal testing
Neuroglow
Givaudan has launched Neuroglow, a new active that stimulates melanin in the skin. It also gives the skin a healthy glow, an uplifting mood, and positive emotions. The ingredient comes on the back of a new paradigm in skincare, which not only aims to improve skin appearance but also impacts wellbeing by stimulating feel-good factors like oxytocin and beta-endorphins.
Glycostop
Beiersdorf has unveiled a new patented ingredient, Glycostop, which inhibits the effects sugar has on the skin through glycation.
The company claims that the ingredient N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline reduces advanced glycation endpoints by up to 68%, preserving collagen and elastin.