Enzyme exfoliation
Enzymes are proteins that dislodge and dissolve dead skin cells like little versions of Pac-Man chewing over the skin’s surface. They can be another instantly gratifying form of exfoliation but gentler and non-abrasive to the skin versus the manipulation of physical exfoliators. They are usually derived from fruits such as papaya, and come in a mask or serum texture. This can be left on the skin to activate and is then removed after a couple of minutes.
Chemical exfoliation
The process where hydroxy acids are used to speed up the removal of our dead skin cells. There are three main hydroxy acids which work in different ways and are more effective for different skin types because of how they act. Patients also need to understand that these acids can increase their skin cell cycle, so they have long-term benefits to skin health and anti-ageing effects.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) are probably the most common acids known to patients and are water soluble. They can appear in daily facial washes to aid the removal of dead skin cells gently on a daily basis. AHAs work by dissolving the connective glue known as desmosomes, which hold our skin cells together, much like the grout on a brick wall. By dissolving the connective glue, skin cells can be readily removed without undue trauma or compromise to the skin. They come in different molecular sizes, so some can be quicker and more destructive than others. They are most commonly derived from sugar, milk or fruits, so allergies should be considered.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA) are the version of hydroxy acid which is more oil-soluble, so they are better suited to breakout-prone, congested and acne skin. The specific acid for exfoliation is known as salicylic acid. Think of this as an acid with a built-in satellite navigation system directing it to dead skin and sebum areas, helping to dissolve those to leave a clearer complexion. It also has an anti-inflammatory benefit so that it can reduce the inflammation and stress around breakouts. Aspirin belongs to a family of compounds called salicylates, the simplest of which is salicylic acid. This particular acid should be avoided for those who suffer from an aspirin allergy.
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHA) are one of the newer acids to reign in the world of skin. They’re similar in action to AHAs, but are much gentler and slower working, as thier molecular size is much larger. Think of these as your acids wrapped in cotton wool. They can be paired with AHAs and BHAs in products or used solo. They are great for sensitive skin, and all other skin types can tolerate them well.
The human skin goes through a form of natural exfoliation in a process called desquamation. This is the process of skin cell turnover in the epidermis in which skin cells are created in the stratum basale, known as keratinocytes. They are then pushed through the cycle to become corneocytes at the stratum corneum, in order to create our protective waterproof casing. This controls moisture retention and supports the microbiome to protect against external threats.
The corneocytes have corneodesmosomes, a protein which acts as an interconnective glue holding the stratum corneum together. The breakdown of these corneodesmosomes by a number of proteases and their inhibitors is critical for the skin to desquamate effectively and efficiently. This can support healthy, radiant skin in its quest, but if this process is not functioning correctly through factors such as stress, medications, pollution or just intrinsic ageing, this can lead to dull, dehydrated, dry, flaky skin or, in extreme situations, the formation of psoriasis; this is when you have a build-up of corneocytes at the surface.
A powerhouse botanical extract, Hydrolyzed Optunia Ficus-Indica Flower or Prickly Pear Flower is a cactus flower extract able to reactivate mechanisms in human skin for natural desquamation through its rich oligosaccharides (sugars and ironic acids) to boost the activity of natural cell proliferation. This ingredient integration into a patient’s daily routine will enhance complexion radiance, improve the skin’s texture through uniformity and provide a hydrating effect, ultimately improving skin health and barrier function.
