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All the terms and descriptions below are words which your practitioner may use when talking to you about your chemical peel, so it might be a good idea to read up on them now. However, don’t worry, if it all seems mind-bogglingly technical! You will be given good guidance about which product and treatment is best for you if you go to see an experienced practitioner in this area.
You do need to be familiar with two terms in particular:
HYPERPIGMENTATION: where the skin has too much pigment and that can lead to brownish spots or blotches on the skin.
HYPOPIGMENTATION: the opposite of the above when the skin can look white or bleached.
SUPERFICIAL PEELSThese are the commonest types of peel used and most often contain some form of hydroxy acid, which is a family of chemicals known to cause exfoliation (removing the top layer of dead skin cells in the epidermis), when applied to the surface of the skin. A superficial peel is like a mild “sandpapering” of the facial skin and it will give your face a healthy glow. You might want to have a peel prior to a special occasion when you want your face to look alive and glowing.
Different forms of hydroxy acid are available on the market. These include alpha hydroxy acids, such as the naturally occurring lactic acid (sour milk) and tartaric acid (from grape skins). Salicylic acid, is a beta hydroxy acid and is unique amongst the hydroxy acids in that it can penetrate deeper into the oil glands causing exfoliation even in the oily areas of the face and scalp. For this reason it has been used for years by dermatologists (skin specialists) to help treat comedonal acne in people who have very oily skins.
Glycolic acid : This product comes in different strengths (30% - 90%) and different pH levels (levels of acidity).
Sometimes combinations of different hydroxy acids are used, such as Jessner's Solution which contains a combination of lactic acid and salicylic acid.
Product brands which have Hydroxy Acid based superficial peels include:
MD Forte, Agera RX, Dermaceutic, Jan Marini, Theraderm Peel, ICP, Mene & Moy, Skinceuticals Gel Peels, Mandel, Cosmedix (Chirally Correct) and NeoStrata.
Lower strength TCA (Trichloroacetic acid) may also be used to obtain a superficial peel.
MEDIUM DEPTH PEELSThese involve the use of stronger peeling solutions. The commonest of these is higher strength T.C.A., Trichloroacetic acid which can be used on it’s own at up to 50% strength, but it is more commonly used in concentrations around 25% - 35% to help reduce possible side effects.
T.C.A. can also be used in combination with glycolic acid or other solutions to help achieve a more controlled and even peel to the correct depth.
Product brands which have TCA based medium depth peels include:
Skintech Peels, Mene & Moy, Compositum, Cosmedix (Chirally Correct) and Obagi Blue Peel
DEEP PEELS These are generally performed using phenol, or 40% TCA. Although deeper peels can be very effective for the right patient, there are a number of potential complications associated with this procedure. Consequently, you will find fewer trained practitioners offering deep peels in the U.K. than those who can give you a medium or superficial treatment.