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4. Inflammatory Cascade
This is a complex process in acne and occurs when all of the above conditions are met – excess oil, microplugging and proliferation of bacteria. The actual inflammatory culprit is lipase, a chemical produced by excessive growth of P. Acnes.
The lipase breaks down the oil’s triglycerides releasing fatty acids. And these fatty acids cause the localised inflammation.
Retain A products (also known as Tretinoin) are effective at reducing localised inflammation and help improve skin cell turnover. They are also good for reducing the pink/purple discolouration of prolonged inflammatory acne. They are a prescription-strength product with good efficacy in most acne patients.
Over the counter, retinols are a good alternative if you cannot see a doctor and can be used in the long term for maintenance and remission. 0.5 -1% retinol is ideal.
Caution: Vitamin A based skincare (retinols & tretionin) can irritate the skin. Use them cautiously, start gently and increase usage slowly as the skin allows. Any initial redness and dryness should settle with continued use.