FACE: 24th – 26th June 2006 Conference Review
Over 300 aesthetic practitioners – encompassing cosmetic dentistry, cosmetic dermatology, aesthetic nurse practitioners, plastic surgeons and cosmetic doctors attended the Facial Aesthetic Conference and Exhibition - the UK’s largest aesthetic conference, held at the Royal College of Physicians in London.
2006 was the fourth year for F.A.C.E. and the meeting not only attracted it’s largest audience, but also over 38 specialist exhibitors involved in a promoting a wide range of aesthetic products and services to the UK market place.
As The Consulting Room™ was again involved in the promotion, management and practical running of the conference on behalf of the Chairman, Professor Nick Lowe, and the conference owners, Wigmore Medical Limited, this month’s feature article is a summary of some of the most interesting points to come out from this year’s event.
(See www.cosmeticconference.co.uk for this year’s full agenda)
Some readers may find this article a little technical – as these selected presentations were prepared and given by specialists in their field. However, as choice of aesthetic products and procedures seems to be growing at an exponential rate – it is important for the savvy consumer to get to grips with some of the concepts behind the many options and new procedures that are now marketed in a wide variety of businesses (from beauty salons to cosmetic dentists and cosmetic surgery clinics) in order to choose both provider and any treatment wisely.
Facial Rejuvenation (Pyschological Issues) - Dr Eileen Bradbury
(Consultant Psychologist, UK)

Dr Eileen Bradbury has lectured on health psychology issues nationally and internationally to meetings of professional groups including plastic and orthopaedic surgeons, ophthalmic surgeons, therapists, dermatologists and psychologists.
Dr Bradbury explained that concepts of beauty and facial aesthetics have been part of human culture from ancient times, and were made explicit in Greek and Roman culture. For many facial surgeons today, their original training involved Plato’s concept of the Golden Triangle – beauty was all about proportion and symmetry. Images of facial beauty from the past are remarkably similar to those of the present – proportion and symmetry continue to determine what we find attractive and attractiveness is clearly perceived as a desirable option. No wonder we work so hard to achieve it.
So what has all this got to do with facial rejuvenation she asked? The unifying theme in all images of beauty is youthfulness, the ultimate in perceived attractiveness. Youthfulness is associated with positive qualities such as energy, fertility, sexuality and, these days, economic power and status. Therefore, what we see is a spiralling growth in demand for rejuvenating cosmetic procedures.
Dr Bradbury noted that there are economic and social factors driving this demand; the “must-have” and “must-have it now” culture of instant gratification, the easy availability of credit, the mainstream acceptance of (and obsession with) cosmetic procedures and the increasingly youthful culture. In addition, there are more people separating and dating in middle-age, and we are living longer with a greater expectation of a youthful life-style.
For some there is the peril of permayouth, a competitive stance whereby the individual is inflexible and unable to adjust to getting older, uses denial and avoidance as coping strategies, self-medicates and overdoses on cosmetic procedures and risks long-term mental-health problems as the battle is won but the insurgents are winning the war.
In this context, Dr Bradbury stated that psychological assessment plays a crucial role. These procedures are being carried out for psychological reasons, it is essential to understand the psychology of the recipient. People tend to seek these procedures at times of change, transition and challenge. Those who benefit psychologically have a clear understanding of their own motivation, understand what is possible, have a stable life situation and psychological state and seek more reasonable mainstream procedures. Those vulnerable to harm include those with a more unstable psychological status, those who are prone to magical thinking with unrealistic expectations, and/or have obsessive perfectionist traits and/or seek more extreme procedures. Therefore it is essential that the practitioner is able to identify those who need careful assessment prior to the procedure.
Dr Bradbury emphasised that there are many underlying psychiatric conditions in the general population, perhaps represented disproportionately in those seeking cosmetic procedures, and that practitioners should be familiar with the signs of Body Dysmorphic Disorder, as this group is very vulnerable to poor psychological outcome and possible litigation.
Liaison with the psychologist is not an automatic process. It requires the practitioner and the psychologist to build a mutually trusting relationship which can take time. The practitioner needs to explain the referral to the patient in a way that is not insulting or dismissive, the psychologist needs to know what the practitioner is prepared to do, and trust that he or she will act on the recommendations.
Recent developments in training include the Cosmetic Surgery Inter-Specialty Committee which is working towards the training and accreditation of cosmetic practitioners. Psychology training for practitioners is seen as essential, and this is an exciting development in the drive to ensure patient safety for a vulnerable minority.
Anti-Ageing Creams: Where’s the Evidence? - Dr Tamara Griffiths
(Consultant Dermatologist, UK)

Dr Griffiths is a founder member and Treasurer of the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group and is a spokesperson on aesthetic issues for the research charity the British Skin Foundation.
Dr Griffiths explained that changes in the skin commonly attributed to an older appearance are actually due to cumulative sun (UV) exposure.
Intrinsic ageing, due to the passage of time and genetics, results in thinning of the outer and middle layers of skin, reduction in the production of natural skin oils and increased water loss from the skin; the subsequent visual impact of fine lines and wrinkles is actually quite subtle, she noted.
Dr Griffiths stated however that photoageing or photodamage results in the degeneration of collagen and elastin in the skin with the formation of deep, coarse wrinkles, leathery texture and the loss of skin elasticity. Loss of support around blood vessels leads to purpura (a red, flushed appearance) and telangiectasia (thread or spider vein) formation, lentigenes (also known as freckles, age or liver spots) develop due to abnormality in skin pigment.
Dr Griffiths commented that consumers are bombarded with information on anti-ageing creams which claim to prevent or reverse skin changes associated with photodamage, however noted that much of it is misinformation.
She explained that when it comes to photodamage, only the following is true:
- The only topical non-surgical agents shown by statistical analysis of controlled clinical trials to reverse signs of photodamage in the skin are retinoids(1).
- The other critical anti-ageing preparation is broad-spectrum photoprotection or sunscreen. Sunscreens need to provide both UVA and UVB protection, use of adequate amounts and regular reapplication of sunscreen must be emphasised as well as their role as only part of comprehensive sun-smart behaviour(2).
- Topical peeling agents can improve the appearance of photodamaged skin by removing the top layers of skin revealing plumper cells underneath, however the reduction in barrier function of this new skin necessitates the use of a sunscreen after treatment(3) .
- Anti-oxidants may effectively reduce the damage caused to the skin by UV radiation and thereby may help in a preventative role against ageing, but additional research in humans is required to support claims of skin rejuvenation(4).
- Topical peptides available in some over-the-counter creams may provide a degree of skin repair but further research is needed(5).
Dr Griffiths also highlighted that growth of the multi-million pound cosmeceutical industry demonstrates the public’s insatiable appetite for youth and beauty.
She demonstrated that the numerous topical products available vary in their efficacy for photoprotection and rejuvenation. Effective skin hydration (moisturisation) from such products results in temporary improvement of appearance, but must be differentiated from those agents which successfully repair damaged collagen and other aspects of skin photoageing. Some of them may have potential, she noted, but robust evidence in the form of controlled trials is often lacking.
References
(1) Samuel M, Brook RCC, Griffiths CEM. Interventions for photodamaged skin. The Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, 2005, Issue 1
(2) Kullavanijaya P, Lim HW. Photoprotection. J Am Acad Dermatol 2005:52;937-58
(3) Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, et al. Effects of alpha hydroxyl acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996:34;187-195
(4) Pinnell SR. Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress and topical antioxidant protection, J Am Acad Dermatol 2003:48; 1-19
(5) Litner K. Promoting production in the extracellular matrix without compromising barrier, Cutis 2002:70(6S);13-16
Mesotherapy for Facial Rejuvenation - Dr Susan Segall
(Cosmetic Physician, UK)

Dr Segall has been practising aesthetic medicine and mesotherapy since 1998. Having trained in France, Spain and the USA Dr Segall is one of the most experienced practitioners in the UK involved in the use of mesotherapy techniques in aesthetic practice.
Dr Segall reminded us that mesotherapy is defined as:
“the practice of using microinjections of conventional or homeopathic medicines, vitamins, minerals and amino acids intradermally (into the skin) to deliver a therapeutic or corrective treatment to a specific area of the body.”
Although originally applied solely to alleviate pain, following the publication of three works by Dr. Michel Pistor in 1952, its use has expanded into every field of general medicine and surgery and in 1987 it was recognised as a speciality in its own right by the French National Academy of Medicine.
Dr Segall noted that the advantages of Mesotherapy include:
- The injected solution is individually prepared depending on its intended use, i.e. treatment is “tailor made” for each patient.
- It is administered directly into the required area for treatment.
- There is a significant reduction in the amount of injected substance(s) due to the microinjection technique.
- There is a negligible risk of side effects or drug interactions.
She also stated that there are three basic rules of mesotherapy, as set down by Dr. Pistor, which are the key to successful therapeutic results.
- Little
- Infrequently
- In the right place.
Dr Segall highlighted that mesotherapy has been successfully incorporated into aesthetic medicine, both as a “stand alone” and “complementary” treatment, to prevent and alleviate the signs of ageing due the age related loss of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. Cosmetic Mesotherapy, also known and marketed as Mesolifting or Mesoglow, is the technique of infusing the skin with polyvitamins, amino acids, anti-oxidants and Hyaluronic Acid to stimulate energy and new cell activity and replace their age-related loss.
In order to explain this, Dr Segall detailed that healthy skin depends on:
- A healthy microcirculation, both to constantly replenish the supply of nutrients and to remove the waste products, especially the damaging free radicals.
- Hyaluronic Acid to both capture and retain water molecules and provide the optimum environment for collagen production.
With increasing age, our skin loses natural hyaluronic acid and its microcirculation becomes sluggish. This decreases the amount of oxygen in the cells and allows the build up of damaging free radicals which further accelerate the ageing process. Fibroblast (cell that produces collagen) activity decreases with consequent loss of collagen and elastin. Clinically this results in skin thinning, a duller, drier complexion and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles to due to increasing skin laxity.
Based on this, Dr Segall stated that Cosmetic Mesotherapy acts specifically to stimulate production of new cells within the skin and replace the age related loss of hyaluronic acid. This stimulus is the key to the rejuvenation process. In order to do this the products are infused directly into the skin using the multiple microinjection technique.
Dr Segall highlighted the main details of the treatment as follows:
- Injections can be performed manually using a standard syringe and 4mm mesotherapy needle or by using a mesotherapy gun.
- Side effects are rare and usually attributable to poor technique.
- Injection pain is mild and usually well tolerated.
- The number of treatment sessions will depend on the condition of the skin. On average, 2 treatments are given monthly for the first 2 months, followed by monthly treatments for 2 - 3 months. Maintenance is on average 3 - 4 sessions per year once skin quality has been restored.
In summary, she emphasised that by acting directly on skin quality Cosmetic Mesotherapy both prevents and corrects the effects of skin ageing.
Skin care by skin type – Dr Leslie Baumann
(Consultant Dermatologist, USA)

Leslie Baumann, M.D. is Professor and Director of Cosmetic Dermatology at the Miller School of Medicine at the University of Miami. She founded the university's internationally recognized Cosmetic Center (UMCC) in 1997, which was the first of its kind in the United States.
Dr Baumann highlighted that millions of dollars are spent on skin care products annually, yet physicians and patients are confused by the myriad of choices on the market. A new skin typing system consisting of 16 skin types has been developed by Dr Baumann and published in her book, The Skin Type Solution.
Dr Baumann explained that in the 1930s, 4 basis skin types were described by Helena Rubinstein: Dry, Oily, Combination and Sensitive. However the Baumann Skin Typing Systems uses 4 main parameters to establish 16 different skin types. These parameters are Oily or Dry, Sensitive or Resistant, Pigmented or Non-Pigmented, and Wrinkled or “Tight”. Dr Baumann highlighted some misconceptions about these parameters by explaining that “pigmented” does not refer to whether a person is of black or white skin colour, but whether a person is prone to pigment changes such as melasma or freckles. Also, the “wrinkled” or “tight” parameter is not denoted by your age and whether you currently have wrinkles but by your skin’s tendency to wrinkle and thus acquire them or more of them as you age.
Using a 64-question questionnaire contained in the book, Dr Baumann insists that we can all establish our specific skin type, and she then reviews those products available in the marketplace which work specifically for each skin type; from the cheapest over-the-counter item to more specialised physician recommend formulations.
The New York Times bestselling book The Skin Type Solution will be published in the UK in July 2006. It contains a list of products on the UK market specific for each skin type. Dr. Baumann does not have her own skin care range; instead the book discusses hundreds of readily available brands and over 200 products currently on the UK market.
The role of the cosmetic dentist in comprehensive facial aesthetics - Dr Raj Ahlowalia
(Cosmetic Dentist, UK)

Dr Ahlowalia is a member of the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry and a member of the British Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry. He regularly appears on the television show ‘Extreme Makeover UK’ performing full mouth rehabilitations and cosmetic dentistry.
Dr Ahlowalia highlighted that in many respects the local dentist is probably the first person that most people will receive a cosmetic surgical procedure from. In fact, imagine the last time you or someone you know needed a filling and asked if it could be "a white one". The white filling is not necessarily the best choice it terms of longevity or function but Dr Ahlowalia noted that the consumer will very often request it because it is the aesthetic choice.
Porcelain technology has been used now for decades and the ability to now cosmetically enhance a smile with veneers of porcelain matched in terms of colour, shape and symmetry has brought the possibility of rapid smile-makeovers within the reach of most people.
Therefore, Dr Ahlowalia maintained that dentists now play a significant part in the early body modification or cosmetic surgery experience of the disposable income, image conscious consumer.
He highlighted recently published research by Tim Newton, professor of psychology as applied to dentistry at King's College which has delivered findings which confirm what has long been known by social psychologists, that positive qualities are often ascribed to people who are considered attractive, that prettier people are treated better and this can influence their personality even from a very early age.
Using digital technology to alter the appearance of teeth in the smiles of a random series of faces the studies explored how individuals made judgements of others based on their own prejudices, social stereotyping, cultural bias, etc. The significant findings were that when judging levels of intelligence and social competence the subject groups consistently downgraded the same faces where the smile had been digitally altered to look worse. Given the rapid increase in the tooth bleaching industry it was also interesting to find faces were consistently judged more attractive where the smiles had been digitally brightened.
At a more basic level Dr Ahlowalia noted that it could be agreed that no matter how much cosmetic surgery, make up, designer clothes or hair styling a person has if they have too ugly teeth to smile confidently this may let them down or worse give away their true age and significantly highlight other work they've had done. Therefore, for a truly comprehensive facial cosmetic makeover co-ordinated consulting with a proficient dentist is now a prerequisite. And, in fact, all TV makeover shows see that for every case a dentist is on board in the treatment planning.
Research being conducted by Dr Ahlowalia and Dr John Cranham in the US is looking into the possibilities of influencing perceived facial proportions by carefully altering the shapes and contours of teeth. The theory is that if shape, contours and edges of the smile which is a focal highlight within a face can set a "tone" upon which may influence the way the rest of the face is perceived can cosmetic dentists alter this favourably.
Dr Ahlowalia maintained that it benefits the entire cosmetic medical world to build stronger links between practitioners in different fields. Cosmetic Surgeons can only help their practices by building professional relationships with Cosmetic Dentists both in terms of helping each others clients achieve their goals and mutual referral sources. After all, he pointed out, cosmetic dentistry is now the easiest and most accessible form of cosmetic surgery available for the new cosmetic client.
Finally, Dr Ahlowalia concluded that The British Academy of Cosmetic Dentists, www.bacd.com, is now the leading resource for locating a cosmetic dentist. All dentists listed have shown a commitment to post graduate study within the field.
Laser Lipolysis - Dr Bruce Katz
(Professor of Dermatology, USA)

Dr Katz is Clinical Professor of Dermatology at The Mount Sinai School of Medicine, and Director of the Cosmetic Surgery & Laser Clinic at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. Dr. Katz, who has been named by New York Magazine as one of the best doctors in New York and is a frequent guest on national and international news shows, including The View, 20/20, Good Morning America and CNN.
Dr Katz introduced us to Laser Lipolysis (brand name LASERLIPOLISI® using the Smartlipo® device), a minimally invasive advanced technique for removing localised collections of fat in the areas that are normally resistant to dieting and physical exercise; basically a laser-assisted liposculpture treatment with a totally revolutionary concept.
It is an innovative liposuction technique using a pulsed Nd:YAG laser system. The light energy emitted by the laser source is conveyed in a thin fibre optic protected by a 1-mm stainless steel cannula so that it does not affect the tissue along its length.
The interaction between the laser energy and the fat cells causes the breakdown of their membranes, resulting in a leakage of their contents which is then dispersed in the spaces in the surrounding tissue. He explained that this is not the only effect of the laser light because there is also a reduction of bleeding and it promotes collagen retraction and skin shrinkage, producing skin tightening. Dr Katz also noted that this method is more precise and less traumatic than conventional liposuction with so many important advantages to be considered as the new frontier in lipo-sculpture.
Dr Katz went on to outline his own treatment protocols for this new device. He stated that when carrying out Laser Lipolysis, the anaesthesia used may be local, epidural, or general; however he prefers to use this technique only with local anaesthesia for sessions limited at one to one and a half hours. A small incision of 2 mm is made, where the cannula is introduced. The surgeon then controls the motion of the cannula by a handpiece; speed must be relatively slow, as compared with conventional liposuction, in order to allow the necessary time for the laser–tissue interaction. After the laser lipolysis, the liquid fat can be removed using suction or a standard syringe.
According to Dr Katz, the results give rise to a harmonious body shape in a short time, without the secondary effects of more aggressive procedures, such as conventional liposuction.
In summary, Dr Katz outlined the advantages of the SmartLipo® device:
- Reduced recovery times
- Minimum secondary post-operative effects
- Less invasive and traumatic technique compared to traditional methods
- Safety for the patient and the operator
- Minimum interference in the patient's social life
The trend for combining different procedures continues to grow as do the indications for certain product classes as the use of different dermal fillers for facial contouring and line filling were highlighted by a number of experienced practitioners who also demonstrated newer indications including the filling of tear troughs and eyebrow lift using dermal fillers.
Impending government legislation changes proposed by the Healthcare Commission were also reviewed at this meeting.
This will require clinics/salons involved in delivering injectable treatments such as botulinum toxin or dermal filler treatments to become registered clinics. This will bring them in line with cosmetic surgeons/cosmetic surgery clinics and clinics offering laser or IPL procedures that are currently legally required to be registered.
The new legislation, currently planned to become law in the Spring of 2007, may have a major impact on the UK botulinum toxin/dermal filler market if beauty salons or clinics providing a venue for doctors or nurses delivering these treatments decide not to become registered.
As the market grows, this could result in many doctors and nurses currently servicing these salons to open their own clinic focused on providing a dedicated menu of non-surgical medical aesthetic treatments which may include injectables, chemical peels, laser/ intense pulsed light and radiofrequency procedures.
These should, in theory, provide a better option focused on the growing menu of non-surgical, medical aesthetic procedures that are flooding the market place, and, in conjunction with The Healthcare Commission, help to drive improvements in standards of safety and service for consumers.
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